Switzerland’s Valais is without doubt one of the most fascinating regions of the Alps. In particular, the surroundings of Zermatt offer many breathtaking excursions that let you enjoy the spectacular views of Matterhorn and Monte Rosa (two of the highest peaks in the Alps). The first trek I personally suggest is the one to Hornlihutte, a mountain hut just under Matterhorn (click here to read the review on the Zermatt-Hornlihutte trek, also published on AlphaHutte). If you’ve already been to Hornlihutte, you definetely have to visit Monte Rosa Hutte which, as the name suggests, is on Monte Rosa. Just to maps things out: Matterhorn is south-west of Zermatt whereas Monte Rosa is south-east. It follows that from Matterhorn you enjoy great views of Monte Rosa and viceversa. This review describes a very nice one-day trek to Monte Rosa Hutte departing from Zermatt and caracterized by mixed terrain hiking including parts on glaciers and moraines as well as traditional dirt trails.

The hike, which can only be done in summer, is for average trekkers: you must have good physical and technical training and moderate knowledge of the environment (i.e. the Alps). The trail is well traced and mantained and very popular, meaning you’ll find plenty of hikers during your journey. The main difficulties are to be found when you cross the two glaciers between Gornergrat and Monte Rosa (there is no conventional trail but a series of flags fixed to the ice which show the way) and the last steep ascent to the Hutte. Talking about equipment, good trekking boots and full clothes are mandatory, crampons are optional. As always I suggest to consult alpine guides in Zermatt that will give you all the help you need to plan the trip and will evaluate your preparation. Also, make sure to check the weather before starting the hike: at these heights you can face great dangers if you underestimate this issue.

I started the trip from Zermatt (if you’re planning the stay in a hotel book rooms at least one week in advance because Zermatt is rather crammed with tourists … especially Japanese people!). I already had a good 1:25000 map covering all the surroundings of Zermatt: you can buy one at Zermatt’s tourist office where you will also find the very useful (and free) Zermatt Summer Guide with all the information you need during your stay. The map, together with a good compass and altimeter, is highly recommended. In this case, apart from basic navigation gear, I also had a GPS handheld which plots in real time my position using signals from geostationary satellites around the earth. The rest of my equipment included: breathable shirt, shorts, waterproof overpants (which you put over your shorts if it gets cold or rains), pile, windjacket, hat (baseball type), light gloves, sunglasses (mandatory), one 1 liter water bottle, a couple of snacks, swissknife, 20 mt. of rope (just in case…) and, obviously, trekking boots and socks.

The day of the trip you should leave Zermatt no later than 9:00am (but I’m sure you’re perfectly confortable with 7:00am) and take the Zermatt-Gornergrat Bahn train which departs from the station in front of the one you arrived to Zermatt. The railway climbs the mountains to the east of Zermatt (connecting the town to Gornergrat) and offers spectacular views of the whole valley; service is excellent (as everything in Switzerland) but the ticket is rather expensive (again as everything in Switzerland!). To reach Monte Rosa Hutte you don’t need to arrive to Gornergrat: instead descend at Rotenboden, which is one stop before. Rotenboden is the trailhead to the Hutte and where the real hike begins.

The first part of the trail (from Rotenboden train stop follow the signs to Monte Rosa Hutte) is rather large and slightly downwards, thus pretty easy. It runs on the south side of the mountain just under Gornergrat and links Rotenboden to the Gorner Glacier. Just before arriving at the glacier the trail becomes very steep and the terrain rather crumbly but don’t worry, just be a little more cautious.

Once at the head of the first glacier, the trail stops and you must hike on ice following the red flags which are placed by mountain guides at the start of the season. The flags are necessary because during the year the ice moves, changing the morphology of the terrain, and the trail changes too. The ice surface is solid and wrinkled, thus revealing itself a perfect hiking terrain; crampons are not necessary if you have good soles under your boots, however you can bring them for extra safety (I kept mine in the backpack). The first glacier ends with a small moraine created by the second glacier “bumping” into the first one; after hiking a few meters on the rocks you’ll think that walking on ice isn’t that bad at all.

The second glacier (Grenx Glacier) is very similar to the first but presents a large number of small crevasses which you have to cross to get to the last part of the trail. Difficulty is minimum because these crevasses are quite deep but only 30-40 centimeters wide and can be crossed with a single footstep: simply follow the red flags and search the narrowest (and thus easiest) passage in front of you.

The last part of the trip is a very steep trail which runs through rocks and dirt going up to Monte Rosa Hutte; ropes and steps help you during the climb. Once at the Hutte you’re presented with a magnificent view of glaciers, moraines, peaks and, in the distance, Matterhorn. If you’re in good shape the trip from Rotenboden to the Hutte should have taken 2 hours and an half (which is almost the double than the figure reported on the map!). To head back you’ll need a bit more, around 3 hours, because you’ll have to climb up the first part of the trail to Rotenboden (apart from being tired and full of “bratwurst” and potatoes you had at the Hutte). From Rotenboden you can take the train back to Zermatt.

In case you’re in perfect shape, there are alternative routes to Monte Rosa Hutte and back. First of all, instead of starting the trail at Rotenboden you can arrive at Gornergrat and from there hike to Gorner Glacier following the narrow and extremely steep trail which comes down from the mountain. Secondly, on the way back, instead of going by train, you can hike from Rotenboden down to Zermatt passing through Riffelberg and Riffelalp, or even do the same trail by bike if you loaded it on the train the way up and left it at Rotenboden to wait you after the hike to the Hutte.

The journey to Monte Rosa Hutte is extremely rewarding. The trip by train allows you to enjoy beautiful panoramas from one of the highest railways of the world. The hike to the Hutte is easy enough for less experienced trekkers but presents a couple of challenging parts that improve both technical preparation and knowledge of different types of terrain. Finally, the Hutte is extremely well positioned to watch glaciers and peaks around Matterhorn (and Matterhorn itself).

First published on the old Altitude 4000 website in September 2001