I have now been in Penang for almost three weeks and I’m starting to really understand the island and its population. I must admit that at first I was not entirely attracted by the place: the heavy-traffic highways, impossibly tall condos and diffused modernity just appeared too aseptic and dull to me. But then I walked in the old Georgetown streets, ate at the joyous and psychedelic hawker stalls, visited the many temples scattered around the island and slowly discovered the incredible variety within the population where different ethnic groups, each with markedly opposite ways of living, interact harmoniously although never mixing together. Now Penang is slowly finding its way in me and I’m more and more connected with the surroundings and the people. It’s the feeling of ease and understanding you have with an old and trusted friend…

The old town, at first sight limited and unappealing, is in fact an intricate composition of different cultures and styles. A number of historic houses and temples are unveiled to the keen eye: they talk about a past of commerce, prosperity, colonialism and cultural tolerance but also conflicting families and hardship. The Khoo Kongsi Clan Complex includes a couple of temples (the main one is a jewel of elaborate decorations) and numerous houses built by an important Chinese family which settled in Penang (as in many other places of southeast Asia). The Chinese Goddess of Mercy, Hainan and Teochew Temples, the Indian Mahamariamman Temple, and the Kapitan Keling Mosque are also very interesting and a symbol of the religious tolerance which has always characterized the island. The Pinang Peranakan and Cheong Fatt Tze Mansions, although sometimes eclectic, are fascinating and allow you to appreciate many different facets of the past, in particular how the Chinese settlers within the straits lived. Finally, the Temple of the Reclining Buddha and the Dhammikarama Burmese Buddhist Temple, one in front of the other, are joyful places where to appreciate different facets of Buddhism.

Southwest of Goergetown, the Kek Lok Si temple raises from one of the hills that overlook the city. It’s the largest Buddhist temple in Malaysia and an elaborate ensemble of buildings and gardens connected by stairs going up and down the hill. The visit is pleasant (in spite of the many tourists that fill the temple from early morning) and allows you to have a deep look into the key elements of the Buddhist religion. Just outside the temple, the market of Air Itam is very interesting and colorful and you can appreciate the local life in one of the most populous neighborhoods of the island.

If you want to move away from mainstream attractions, head south the the two fishermen villages of Batu Maung and Teluk Kumbar. They are still a great example of the old kampung (villages) that once covered the island and where life went by sleepy and quiet. To experience a bit more the life of the local Penangites, apart from the market in Air Itam, try visiting Bukit Jambul or Sunshine Square shopping centers: once shiny and high-end, after the opening of huge centers such as Queensbay they are now the preferred buying place for low and middle class locals. Batu Maung also has a very nice night market on Friday evenings frequented only by locals.

However, the best way to really understand Penang and its people is to try the incredible variety of local food. Food is available everywhere and anytime in Penang. A number of culinary cultures from all parts of Asia mix playfully in a cornucopia of spices, flavors and cooking techniques. The topic is so vast and interesting that deserves a full post in the near future only for it. In the meanwhile enjoy this small gallery…