I’ve just returned from a trip to Bolivia. In 2004 I had visited La Paz and its surroundings but promised myself to go back to visit the vast plateau that makes up to south-western part of the country. The plateau, most of which at altitudes above 4000 meters o.s.l., is a stunning land with variety and extremes I have never seen elsewhere. Canyons of all shapes, volcanos and geysers over lunar landscapes, infinite salt deserts, beautiful lagoons with impossible colors and… flamingos, hundreds of them with bright pink feathers. The photo above is the Laguna Colorada with a hot water spring in the foreground.

I am still working on photos from my trip to Himachal-Pradesh last summer. Memories are still strong, especially those of the stark landscapes in Spiti Valley. Bare mountain sides, streaky rock formations and that angry sky full of menacing clouds always looking down at you… The photo above is a view of the valley where the Spiti and Pin rivers join, just a few kilometers north of Dhankar.

By the way, it has been submitted to the Lonely Planet TV Worldwide Encounters competition on Portable Film Festival. Head there from June 8th to June 19th to watch the finalist videos!

The region I visited is to the southwest of Djanet, a small town in the south of Algeria near the border with Libya and Niger. The area is part of the Parc National du Tassili and includes a great variety of environments ranging from sand dunes, to canyons, plateaus and plains. The map below shows the approximate itinerary and the three main areas visited (zoom-in and click on placeholders to show names of the areas).

I travelled with a group aboard four 4×4 vehicles driven by Tuareg locals. Camping was primitive and free given no facilities whatsoever nor inhabited areas are present in the region. The weather was unusually warm with temperatures never dropping below 0°C whereas normally nights are extremely cold during winter. If you plan to visit the area, a tent and a good sub-zero (°C) sleeping bag are absolutely required. Hat, sunglasses and long-sleeved shirts are also a must for sun protection.

We started out from the Ténéré Village and, after buying water and supplies in Djanet, we headed south to the Tadrart area. The area is entered though the Oued In Djeran and rapidly develops in a number of canyons and plains of immense beauty. The fascinating part is that in an area less than 60 kilometers long you get to see a great variety of colored sands, shapes of rock and inusual features you can hardly believe. At the southern and western borders of the canyons, you arrive respectively at Moul N’Aga and Tin Merzouga where the landscape opens to breath-taking views of the sands dunes. If that’s not enough, the area is an open-air meseum in terms of cave paintings and carvings: impressive graphical works, very well preserved, with multiple styles and presumably from different historical periods. The paintings and carvings show tribal life and a wealth of animals and are a reminder of a long time ago when the area was abundant in water, vegetation and inhabitants.

Exiting the Tadrart from where we entered, we then headed a bit to the south to Alidemma. This second area features different but equally impressive rock formations and sands. If the Tadrart presented a palette of infinite variations of orange, red and white with intricate smooth textures, Alidemma amazed me with ranges of yellows, browns and beatiful ragged rocks.

Finally, we moved to the west of Djanet where the great sands of the Erg Admer start. It’s yet another landscape: no more rocks and canyons but only dunes as far as the eye can see. The yellow velvet of the dunes in a totally silent landscape provide a strong soothing effect and the feeling of solitude and tranquillity were stronger than ever.

Around Djanet, the area of Timras and the carvings at Tigherghert (or La Vache qui Pleure) also deserve a visit. The oasis and the town of Djanet however are less interesting.

The immense beauty of the features in this part of the Sahara leave you absolutely breathless whereas the variety is sure to keep you excited and make you appreciate the different landscapes the desert has to offer. If you’re thinking about a good introductory trip to the Sahara you should definetely consider the south of Algeria.

I’ve just returned from a short desert trip to the south of Algeria. The picture above, shot near Alidemma south of Djanet, is just one of the many amazing landscapes one can enjoy in the Sahara. The extremely varied combinations of rocks and sands produce infite variations of colors and textures one cannot stop to marvel at. And when the sun goes down you look up at the sky and can almost touch the stars. The desert is indeed a magical place to be…

General wisdom about adventure traveling suggests to pack the lightest luggage possible and I couldn’t agree more! However, traveling light requires a great deal of discipline in choosing only the items needed for the specific trip and systematically leaving home the superfluous. My first suggestion is to gather all the info you can on the place you are visiting (climate, accommodation, activities, etc.) in order to narrow down to a precise gear list of what is needed. Secondly, choose a small bag: this way you will be forced to limit the items you pack. In any case, never (I repeat never) travel with more than 20 kilos of luggage: not only you’ll get tired carrying a bulky pack but you you’ll probably face several issues with regional air transportation.

The many and varied trips I did over the years convinced me that the best strategy is to carry two backpacks: a big one for the main luggage and a smaller one for day trips and carrying core gear on planes (i.e. the essential gear that lets you carry out the trip even if you lost the main luggage). The only two cases in which I would change this strategy is if you’re traveling on a vehicle all the time (I did this in Namibia) or if you have backache: in these cases I’d substitute the big backpack respectively with a waterproof bag (to put on the roof avoiding a secondary cover) and one of the latest wheeled duffels.

Sticking to the main strategy, the big backpack in my opinion should be a 50-60 liters internal frame hiking pack with hipbelt and heavy padding for comfortable wearing, tough fabric and seams and plenty of access. I prefer three-compartments packs: a lower compartment for sleeping bag and footwear, a main compartment for clothes and other gear, a top pocket for accessories. Access should be guaranteed from the top and from the front or laterally. Lateral and frontal compression straps are key to steady the load.

The small backpack should be a lightweight 25-30 liter hiking or raid pack with one main compartment for carrying core gear and several smaller pockets to neatly organize items and access them quickly. I prefer backpacks with the fewest external pockets possible for greater security against pickpocketing, light hipbelt and padding for comfort, an elasticated pocket to carry a water bottle (I’m no big fan of hydration packs for adventure travel) and built-in rain cover. If you do serious photography (I do), this backpack should also contain almost all your photo gear. After years of searching I think I finally found the perfect small backpack: Lowepro’s Primus AW. It carries essential gear and my SLR with three lenses and a mini tripod in a frame within plane limits.

Regarding packing itself (an art I soon discovered), I won’t annoy you with different tactics to place items within the backpack (the general rule is to place heavier items near your back). My only suggestion is to pack everything in lightweight plastic or fabric bags for improved protection, space optimization and quicker access. I prefer fabric bags that guarantee proper ventilation and reduce moisture except for wet climates and packing footwear where plastic bags are a must.

In addition to the two backpacks the third item you can’t leave without is an undercover security belt. It should contain passport, money, credit cards, emergency info and should never leave your waist during the trip (except when taking showers obviously). I prefer synthetic or silk belts in skin-like colors and with two or three internal compartments. When packing, wrap all items in lightweight plastic bags to protect them from moisture and above all sweat.

Finally, for protection against the elements and environments with lots of dust I always carry a good backpack cover: I use it both for checking the pack on a plane and whenever the pack travels on the outside of a vehicle. Also, during my latest trips I got used to a medium-sized dry bag (big enough to store everthing carried inside the small backpack). It’s invaluable for protecting photo gear in case of trips over (or inside) water and in case of heavy dust such as in the desert.

This summer I traveled to Cambodia and Laos on a trip along the Mekong River. Jungle, canyons, rapids, monsoon rainfalls, rural villages, markets, temples and many many rice fields… in one word unforgettable. In the last days, I’ve started the daunting task of selecting, rearranging and editing some 1900 photos. Here’s one of the first shots taken at Angkor in Cambodia and showing typical Khmer sculptures.

After Lanzhou and a glimpse of Tibet in Xiahe, the trip continued through the Hexi Corridor: historically, the strategic passage to get into China from central Asia. In Jiayuguan I visited the renovated fort that once was one of the main outposts of the eastern part of the Great Wall. Then, with a detour to Dunhuang, I got a look at the Taklimakan Desert and visited the famous Mogao Caves with yet again numerous carved and painted buddhas. If the caves and the sand dunes did not impress me much, I was amazed by the huge cemetery at the south-east of Dunhuang (nearby the dunes): an immense piece of land scattered with all sorts of tombs, built with bricks and mud, each with an offering ranging from flowers to bottles of cola.

The Hexi Corridor leads to the remote province of Xinjiang, inhabited by Uighur Muslims. I started out heading to Tian Chi, a beautiful deep blue lake at 2000 meters o.s.l. surrounded by breathtaking mountains covered with pines, green meadows and snowy peaks. The area is full of local Chinese tourists and is said to become a big ski domain but, once left the head of the lake and its tourist attractions, you can enjoy pristine valleys and breathe some fresh and cool air. Apart from some nice hikes and panoramas I enjoyed staying overnight at one of the Kazakh settlements: you sleep in authentic yurts and get to eat some tasty lamb cooked in mud ovens.

Next, a plane brought to me to Kashgar, which I soon recognized as the most fascinating part of the trip. Once the main market and crossroads of central Asia, in latest years it’s changing fast under the influence of Chinese Han which nowadays dominate all administrative and business affairs. The old town is being little by little dismantled or transformed into a tourist attraction and Chinese-style blocks and condominiums are progressively taking over the city layout (I’ve been impressed when comparing my photos with those in National Geographic’s Journey into China published two decades ago). Nonetheless, Kashgar still remains a city full of charm, life and interesting people. With a little effort you can access deep into the remaining part of the old town and savor the small alleys and houses that once extended in all the central part of the city. Outside the old town, Kashgar’s colorful streets and squares are full of people day and night: the Uighur population, differing from Chinese Han, is generally very warm, helpful and eager to get in touch with you. The city also offers a wide selection of tasty Uighur cuisine: lamb, chicken, potatoes, rice, noodles all cooked with a variety of spices and served with the typical Muslim bread.

However, what really made my trip and fascinated me the most were Kasghar’s markets. I have a thing for markets and spend a lot of time during my travels simply strolling about the colorful, noisy and scented alleys. It’s where you get in touch with the local population and really understand the culture. That’s why I enjoyed so much the Sunday visiting Kashgar’s two main markets. I woke up before sunrise and headed straight to the Livestock Market (Mal Bazaar) near the town outskirts. Around five, while having breakfast with noodles and steamed ravioli at a local stall, herds, cattlemen and farmers started flooding from all parts in a fascinating confusion of colors, smells, cries and clouds of dust. Camera at hand, shooting photo after photo, I slowly entered with them the market grounds and soon found myself surrounded by horses, donkeys, lambs, cows with rugged farmers showing off and trading their animals. All around, stands and booths sell all kinds of food: in one of them I watched in awe while a cook made spaghetti from flour and water in a matter of minutes only with expert acrobatic movements. I liked all this so much that even now I feel an emotion thinking back at the joyful confusion and charged atmosphere of the bazaar. Late in the morning, while other tourists started arriving (having traded the most intimate moments of the bazaar for a few hours of sleep), I moved to the Sunday market (Yam Bazaar). There you can find everything from food to spices, clothes, bags, jewelry, spare parts and obviously tissues (even if I soon found out that silk has given the way to nylon products). Less fascinating than Mal Bazaar, the Sunday market is where locals do their everyday shopping and thus you I was exposed to local costumes and ways of living. I finished this perfect day sipping tea at an old Uighur tea house just behind the central mosque.

A few hours from Kashgar you have the occasion to have a glimpse of the Pamirs by covering the first part of the Karakoram Highway to Karakul Lake. As I watched in awe at the steep mountain sides and the unreachable and shiny snowy peaks some 5000 meters above the road, I promised myself to dedicate one of my future trips only to this incredible part of the world.

Instead of going further east a couple of trains brought me back to Urumqi, the capital of Xinjiang back in the eastern part of the region. Along the way I stopped at Kuqa to visit Kizil Caves: while the caves are nothing special, the difficult road to reach them passes through a landscape of crumbling mountains with impossible shapes I had never seen before. More interesting is Turpan, 2 hours and a half from Urumqi, featuring a nice minaret and a number of interesting sites in its surroundings. Jiaohé and Gaochang are two ancient cities now in ruin eaten by the desert: with some imagination, the old rocks give an idea of the power and wealth that once existed along the Silk Road. To the east of Turpan you can also find the impressive Flaming Mountains and within them Tuyoq, a small village of wine growers in a patch of green enclosed by the desert. Tuyoq is a Muslim enclave where tourists aren’t particularly welcome and few drivers bring you there since the road is in rather bad conditions. However the architecture and people are extremely quaint with mud houses, small alleys and a nice mosque complex on its outskirts.

My trip finished in Urumqi. It’s a large and modern town with good shopping centers and markets to leave with plenty of souvenirs. It also has one of the best night markets I’ve come around with plenty of food for the joy of your eyes and taste.

I hope you enjoyed my story and was able to feel some of the many emotions I felt during this fascinating trip.

After visiting Beijing and its surroundings, I started heading west and experienced the first of a long series of travels by train which characterized the whole trip. Traveling by train in China is horrible and at the same time fascinating. It all begins entering a wonderfully crowded station in which about one thousand men, women and children of all kinds and with all sort of luggage want to get on the train… your train! When the gates open and the guards let people through, this human wave starts moving faster and faster and in no time you find yourself running (carrying your backpack, hugging your camera and with the ticket in your mouth) in desperate search of your car.

Once you get in and settle down (after deciphering the ideograms locating your compartment obviously) the real experience begins: an up close and personal journey with about a hundred fellow travelers, all crowded in the same car of six bunks compartments. However, I can only consider myself privileged since, even if not first class, the sleeping-cars I traveled in were definitely better than what most people were in. Initially I was rather troubled by all the cooking going on and the horrible state bathrooms get after just one hour of travel, but in the end I got perfectly accustomed to the way of things and comfortably started cooking and making tea myself. Also, I have to say that not even in Europe there are trains that punctual and the stewards on the train can only be praised for their efforts in keeping each car tidy and orderly (including banging their wood notebook on your head at 6 a.m. if you’re late preparing to get off the car!).

The first train brought me to Datong, a highly industrial and polluted city that still feels very much communist (including the smell of coal in the air once typical of eastern Europe). The Shanxi province where Datong is has several nice attractions: from Yungang Caves just outside town (with probably the best carved buddhas I’ve seen during the whole trip), to the impressive Hanging Monastery (for sure too crowded and touristic), to the Wooden Pagoda in Yingxian. However, the one place you can’t miss is Pingyao: a very characteristic small town, surrounded by ancient walls, that has remained untouched by modernization and presents itself with old houses, small alleys, colorful shops and a number of historical buildings and temples. I wish I could have remained there more to visit all the hidden spots I discovered too late or simply walking around and enjoying the nice shops and booths…

After the province of Shanxi, I moved to Xi’an: an important historical town now transformed into a modern and efficient city with a population of more than 6 millions. Along with the skyscrapers and glittering shopping centers there are several monuments that are worth a visit and the very characteristic Muslim district with a huge market and plenty to see. Xi’an however is famous around the world mainly for the spectacular Terracotta Warriors located just outside town. The site has become a huge touristic attraction with concrete industrial-age pavilions covering the ancient remains and a growing circus of shops, restaurants and shows just outside. Nonetheless, when you enter the main pavilion you can’t be anything but breathless in front of the long rows of statues staring at you. I got totally absorbed and it took me a while to get hold of myself and… start shooting photos like a mad man! Definitely worth the trip.

My voyage then continued in the province of Gansu, one of the poorest but probably also more authentic regions of China. The biggest city is Lanzhou, since ancient times the starting point of all travels to Tibet and central Asia and a strategic military stronghold. If it was for the reviews on western tourist guides (describing it as meaningless and one of the most polluted places on the planet) I wouldn’t have spent a minute there, however I found the stay in Lanzhou extremely interesting. Maybe because there were no westerners whatsoever around and for the first time I found the real China, maybe because along the banks of the impressive (and filthy) Yellow River people gather in parks to sing, play, act improvised performances, maybe because most of the people still behave like countrymen with simple expectations and are genuinely intrigued by strangers. I feel I was really able to connect with the place.

Just outside town, along the Yellow River, you can reach by boat the Buddhist caves of Bingling Si. The boat trip alone is worth it and gives you the opportunity to discover the canyons bordering the Yellow River but also the devastation of the countryside happened since the cultural revolution. The caves are well preserved and feature a huge Buddha overlooking a nice canyon but maybe more interesting is the four-wheel drive to the deeper part of the canyon where a lonely monk keeps a small temple and offers you tea.

Gansu extends to the northern limits of Tibet and I got a glimpse of it visiting the Labrang Monastery in Xiahe. An impressive layout of temples, stupas and other religious buildings surrounded by a typical prayer path where pilgrims spin beautifully decorated prayer wheels. You can admire the monastery and the surrounding valley from above by hiking the ridge to the north: there you’ll find several prayer flags and for sure breathe some of the cleanest air in China. However, the best memories in my case are the ones of the morning prayer of the monks I had the privilege to watch the second day I was there. I woke up at 5 a.m. and, after a short walk from my hostel, I was able to enter the main temple and sit in the back while the monks prayed with their guttural voices and had breakfast. All around only perfect silence and the strong smell of yak butter… a magic moment!

Around Xiahe you also have the opportunity to visit some beautiful grasslands. Forget the ones nearest town and head straight to Ganjia grasslands and the small farmers’ village of Bajiao. The trip can be a bit tricky to organize (I had to negotiate and trust some crazy local drivers) but after an hour and a half of uncomfortable dirt tracks you find yourself in the middle of nowhere with stunning mountains all around and a countryside almost untouched by modernization.

The final part of the trip, in the more remote and wild Xinjiang, in Part 3.